Bucatino in North Falmouth impresses with traditional menu, extensive wine listBy Lannan M. O’Brien
Even the most critical connoisseurs of authentic Italian food will be impressed by the dining experience at Bucatino Restaurant and Wine Bar, a new restaurant in North Falmouth.
Open since July, Bucatino (named after a thick, hollow spaghetti) replaced the former Beach House restaurant and pub, a beloved local stomping ground at the corner of Route 28A and Route 151. The new restaurant is owned by Robert and Jennifer Jarvis, who also own Falmouth’s Quarterdeck restaurant and the Pilot House Restaurant and Lounge in Sandwich.
On a Tuesday in August, business was steady as small parties entered throughout the night. Upon stepping inside, diners will feel immediately welcomed—not just by the friendly staff, but by the warm, yellow glow from dozens of bulbs suspended from the ceiling over the bar.
While the upscale nature of the restaurant is reflected in its menu and prices, the inviting atmosphere is a pleasant surprise.
Groups of adults seated at the bar or high-top tables nearby watched the Olympics on flat-screen TVs during candlelit dinners. The restaurant is also family friendly, and on this night, a few groups with young children were seated in the next room. There, TVs are absent and a low, brick wall displaying wine bottles and succulents revive memories of dining in Boston’s North End. A fireplace in the farthest room makes a cozy spot to dine in on chilly winter nights.
Those familiar with the traditional Italian menu will appreciate that Bucatino’s is true to form, separated into antipasti (appetizers), zuppe and insalate (soups and salads), first course, second course of meat or fish and contorni (side dishes). Customers with allergies and diet restrictions will find a myriad of dishes labeled as vegetarian and/or gluten-free. The restaurant also offers an extensive wine list containing more than 40 Italian wines.
Two mouthwatering appetizers include the prosciutto-wrapped melon, with goat cheese and fig balsamic syrup, and the grande meatball—which truly is “grande”—made with ricotta, pecorino, mozzarella filling, fresh herbs and the sweetest Pomodoro sauce. For a main course, meat lovers can enjoy every mouthful of the grilled center cut beef tenderloin. Cooked to a perfect medium-rare, the dish came with smooth whipped potatoes and grilled asparagus. The tenderloin was topped with a pancetta-sweet onion jam and a Barolo wine sauce the consistency of gravy.
Despite competition from other Italian restaurants in town—just on Main Street, there’s Osteria La Civetta and La Cucina Sul Mare—it is reasonable to predict that Bucatino will have long-lasting success in its future, as well as a reputation as one of Falmouth’s and the Upper Cape’s top-notch dinner destinations.
7 Nathan Ellis Highway, North Falmouth, 508-566-8960